Beautiful Bargello

by Carol Simmons on 05/04/2012

Among the most prized pieces in my polymer collection are these bargello beads made by Laura Liska. I love the desaturated color blends and the rich texture she created by leaving gaps between the raised strips of color. I wanted to buy them all but my funds were limited so these are all I have.

Several years later, after Laura had stopped working in polymer, I tried to make my own. I wasn’t able to recreate the richness of her color blends nor was I able to manipulate those tiny strips of color (the round bead is just over 1 inch across and there are 15 tiny strips on it) without distorting them. Achieving Laura’s even spacing between the strips was way beyond my abilities (and probably still is) so I gave up.

Lindly Haunani and Maggie Maggio have done us all a great service by providing instructions for making these beads (with Laura’s permission) as a project in their 2009 book Polymer Clay Color Inspirations. Especially useful is the information on how to use “mud” to produce beautifully shaded color blends.

 

I returned to working with bargello designs when I started casting about for things I could do with Skinner Blends I already had on hand.  This time, after I stacked my blends I sliced the stack into very thin sheets and then into narrow strips . (Yes, I used my slicer.) I arranged these strips like fabric to create flat bargello patterned veneers to put on pre-formed pendant blanks.

The pendant on the left was my first effort.  It is a bit clunky looking but it clearly has a bargello pattern.  After that moderate success I decided to tackle a more complex pattern with thinner strips. My next two efforts are shown on the right Each pendant is a bit over 1 inch wide..

 

This is how I made the veneers. I started with a glass surface with a grid underneath it to help me line up the strips. Beneath the grid there was a sheet of white cardstock and beneath that four small blocks of blue ice to keep the work surface cool in my overly warm house.

Next, I laid out the cut strips on my glass work surface. Using a tissue blade (lengthwise) I lifted up one slice and placed it in a different area of my work surface, making sure it was very straight, lined up parallel to the grid and pressed down on the glass. I used my blade to pick up the next strip. (When I picked up the strip, I didn’t slide my blade entirely under the strip; instead I tilted my blade such that I was able to lift the strip by its edge with most of the width hanging off of the blade.) I lined up this strip (still on my blade) with the one on the glass, offsetting the pattern just a bit.  When the strip was in position, I tilted the blade so that the free edge of the strip was pressed against the edge of the strip on the glass, then released the strip with a rolling motion of the blade. The strip came off in the desired position but wasn’t quite straight so I pressed my blade against it to straighten it before adding the next strip.

After I assembled the strips for the veneer, I placed a sheet of waxed paper on top of it and rubbed over it with the back of a spoon to fuse the strips. I trimmed the edges then lifted the veneer with my blade and transferred it to a small piece of cardstock. I slid the veneer off the edge of the card onto the pre-formed (unfired) pendant blank, taking care not to trap any air bubbles. I burnished the veneer onto the blank and completed the pendant.

The picture above is a veneer in progress on my work surface. It is about 1 inch high. When I am constructing my veneers I try to offset each new strip from the one before it by an amount equal to the width of a strip. The zigzag patterns are created by offsetting the strips to the right for several strips then off setting the next ones to the left.

I will be teaching the simplest version of  a bargello pattern as part of my Introduction to Color Blending workshop at Shake Rag Alley School of Arts and Crafts, in Mineral Point Wisconsin on June 2, 2012.

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Tools I Like for Caning

by Carol Simmons on 04/26/2012

Notice: My final 6-day workshop for the year will be in Racine, WI, in June. One registrant has had to cancel so there is a new opening for one person.

My workshop travel is finally winding down; I hope that means I’ll be finding more time to write this blog. A lot of the posts I write are for the benefit of my students. I try to expand upon (or repeat) information I’ve shared in workshops so the information will be available when their memories of the workshops have faded.  From the responses I’m getting it appears that a lot of other people are finding the information useful as well.  I’ll try to do better at keeping it up.

For those of you who don’t know, “caning” refers to the process of constructing a polymer clay cane. It has nothing to do with preserving fruit.  People often ask why I recommend certain tools for my caning workshops; here are some of the reasons.

I prefer to use a glass work surface because it is transparent and it is more resistant to scratches than plastic. I also like the weight.

I place a plastic quilting grid under the glass to facilitate measuring and lining up pieces of clay. The grid has 1″, 1/4″ and 1/8″ divisions.

In addition to the usual slicing blade I carry an 8″ floor scraper blade. I use this blade for scraping/lifting larger sheets of clay off the work surface if my regular blades aren’t long enough. It works best when the sheet is lifted using a swift, continuous pull of the blade. Look for the blades in your home building supply store. There are many brands. The blades come packaged individually or in multiples.

 

I have an acrylic roller that measures about 12″ long by 2″ in diameter. I find that much narrower rollers are more likely to leave indentations in the clay. This larger roller is particularly useful for reducing a rectangular cane. Rolling over the top of the cane helps even up the surface and square up the corners in addition to elongating the cane.

 

 

I also have a set of narrower rollers that I use to shape portions of a complex cane during construction. It is easier to insert a new component cane if the “receiving” area of the master cane has already been shaped to “accept” the component cane.  I use my acrylic rollers and rectangles to do this shaping. The rollers are in matching pairs and range in diameter from about 1/4″ to 1″.

 

 

 

Used in pairs, the rollers are perfect for forming “cusp-shaped” units of clay to fill in the gaps between cylindrical components. The filling keeps the round components from turning into square components when the master cane is reduced.

When it is necessary to join the edges of  two sheets of clay together (as when preparing clay for a Skinner blend), I place a deli sheet over the position of the seam and burnish (rub) the surface of the sheet gently with a bone folder (above) or the back of a spoon to close the seam. I do this every time I do a Skinner blend to make sure the pieces won’t split apart when the sheet is folded and fed into the pasta machine.

I find a pair of acrylic rectangles extremely useful for squaring up square canes and helping to shape triangular ones. I place them on opposite sides of the cane and press. The plastic should be thick enough that it doesn’t bow when you press against it. I have my basic set that I use most often, two rectangles approximately 3″ x 12″ x 1/4″, as well as some larger ones for working on larger canes. A single rectangle can be used to elongate and even out cylinders of clay (“snakes”) by rolling the cylinder of clay back and forth under the rectangle while pressing gently on the rectangle. Press too hard and the cylinder can come apart in the center and “deflate” like a flat tire.

A steel potter’s rib is nearly irreplaceable when it comes to lifting up very thin sheets of clay without tearing them. I store my sliced canes between sheet protectors and sometimes these very thin slices are quite difficult to remove, especially when they have been stored a while. A steel potters will often do the trick. Get the kind that is flat and has one straight edge.

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Mokume Gane in Georgia

March 21, 2012

This is just a reminder that I’ll be teaching my new mokume gane technique at Creative Journey Studios in Buford, GA (near Atlanta)  in just over a week. I’ve been experimenting with this technique for over a year and have only introduced it to the public in one workshop in Colorado (outside of my studio [...]

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Pendant Cords Part II

January 10, 2012

Workshop Updates: There is one NEW OPENING in the RACINE Kaleidoscope Pendant Intensive. Workshop Details This is a continuation of my saga with pendant cords that I started in my Nov. 25, 2011 post.  Part of the reason for sharing my problem solving process in such detail is to illustrate how something that seems quite [...]

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Hold a Hummingbird in Your Hand

January 2, 2012

Have you ever held a hummingbird in your hand? Well here’s your chance! I’m so excited about my Birds and Clay Workshop in Arizona this May! I know there is a lot of interest because many of you are checking out the details each day.  Nevertheless I still have 4 openings, so I decided I [...]

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Creating Color Swatches with Photoshop

December 29, 2011

UPDATE:  One of my readers, Anna Anpilogova, sent in these links to palette generators.  The are in the comments below but I’m repeating them here because they are so useful.  Thank you Anna!   http://www.colourlovers.com/photocopa, http://kuler.adobe.com/#create/fromanimage, http://www.colorhunter.com, http://bighugelabs.com/colors.php, http://www.palettefx.com/, http://jrm.cc/color-palette-generator/ Also the artist for this picture is G C Meyers ******************** This post fulfills a promise to [...]

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Update on the Simmons Slicer as of Dec, 2011

December 20, 2011

I know some of you aren’t quite ready to pay the registration fee for a workshop and are tracking the number of remaining openings so I will be updating the table at the right with each post. The slicer is now out and in use in the polymer clay community. About 12 people have them. [...]

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Registration for 2012 6-day Workshops Now Open

December 7, 2011

12/14/2011: Please note this CORRECTION to my post on Pendant Cords:  The cord I purchased was 1.8 mm, not 1.4mm (as previously stated). WORKSHOP UPDATE: There are 3 openings left in the Georgia workshop and 2 in the Racine workshop. There are 5 openings in the Birds and Clay Workshop. 6-Day Intricate Kaleidoscope Pendant Intensive [...]

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Questions I Ask Myself about Teaching

November 29, 2011

I’m getting a lot of invitations to teach one-day and even half-day classes and I can’t decide what to do about them. It seems to me that there are plenty of quick project-oriented classes and tutorials around already. I can teach short classes and people enjoy them, but what really satisfies me is helping people [...]

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Pendant Cords – Part I

November 25, 2011

CORRECTION: 12/15/2011 The cord I purchased was 1.8 mm, not 1.4mm (as previously stated). I’ve looked for years for just the right kind of cord for my pendants.  Most of the colored cords I’ve found have been too bright. I found some black cord but it didn’t look right because there wasn’t any black in [...]

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